Once again, I’ve found myself with a stack of fabric and plans to sew many things. One of my goals for this year is to not sew just for the sake of sewing. I want to be deliberate and only make things that I really need and/or desperately want. Need takes priority over desire.
In an effort to keep myself organised, I’m going to attempt to keep a sewing project list going here, marking down specific plans and then checking things off as they are completed. We’ll see how this goes.
Do you keep a list of projects? Do you have tips for keeping yourself on track? I would love to hear any of your tips or best practices!
Updated 19-February-2024 5-April-2024
Projects to do or in progress
Project
Fabric
Status or Priority
Pattern Test (shhhh)
Woven
Due April 15
Winter White T-Shirt – Cashmerette Concord T
Jersey
In Progress
Jeans
Denim
By end of April
Summer Blouse using Cashmerette Harrison pattern (as adjusted by Ron Collins)
Rayon Challis ditsy print from Fabricland
By end of April
Cashmerette Dress Sloper Class
Muslin
8-Week Program through May
Handbag or Cross Body Bag
Woven? Canvas? Cork?
Thinking …
Ron Collins Sewing Retreat
???
Need to plan projects to take to the sewing retreat in late May
T-Shirt or ITY Dress
Use either the grey chrysanthemum print or the maize ITY
For whenever the weather warms up … May?
Bedroom/Bathroom Cornices
Use window panels from Wayfair
By end of spring (staple gun project)
Family Room & Kitchen Window Treatments
Need to Research
By end of the summer
Completed Projects
Project
Fabric
Status or Priority
French Jacket using Vogue 7975
Wool Blend
Done
Spring Vest – Cashmerette Club Murcot Vest
Softshell
Done
Spring Long-Sleeved T-Shirt – Cashmerette Concord T
The Sewing Plans worksheets are included below. There are two pages. One is a cat theme. The other is not. Because I know not everyone is enamoured with cats đ»
A mid-summer party meant we needed costumes! We havenât worn costumes since about 2002 and yes, I sewed these ones, too. Vague memories of channeling my ancestors in Viking robes while drinking akavit âŠ
We were invited to a summer costume party with a rather specific theme – Austin Powers. My husband immediately said he wanted to dress as Dr Evil. Although I could have bought a costume online, we all know that anyone who sews will always choose the, “I can make it myself” option.
Dr Evil had a few standard costumes but this one – the grey jacket with the Nehru collar – seemed to be the easiest – and least expensive from a fabric perspective- to replicate, so this is the version we selected.
Initially, I tried to take the easy way out. I looked at a few thrift stores for jackets that could easily be converted without much luck. Then I checked out chef’s jackets and yes, there was a perfect jacket available but it was over $80 and shipping could take 4 weeks.
I was able to find a suitable pair of grey trousers in a thrift store so bought those, which meant I had to sew the jacket.
The Pattern
For the jacket. pattern, I chose Butterick 6534. The pattern description is “Misses’ and Men’s Coat, Tunic, and Pants”.
The coat pattern has a Nehru collar, is knee length, and the jacket does not close. I knew that adding a band would be a relatively simple fix.
The Fabric
Since this is a costume, I did a bit of a search for less expensive* fabric. Fabricland carries a fabric called “Galaxy Twill” (65% polyester, 35% cotton) and the colour was a good match for the trousers. The fabric was really easy to work with and I think it would be a good option for casual clothes that need to take a beating.
*Less expensive is a subjective term. This fabric was $10 a metre which is super cheap for Canada.
Adjustments
The jacket worn by Dr Evil is a standard length. I measured one of my husband’s suit jackets, and then cut off 8″ from the length of the pattern.
The sleeves also needed some extra length. In my opinion, the pattern sleeves are very short. My husband’s arms aren’t especially long but I needed to add 2″ to the arm length.
The front band really took the most work but it was still a relatively simple alteration.
On the front left of the bodice, I started by adding 4″ of width. The pattern does not call for interfacing on the front band or the collar. I interfaced both the collar and the front left extension.
I serged the edge of the left front extension, then folded in 1/4″.
Both left and right front bands were hand basted to hold in place while the collar was added.
Because I wanted the front of the jacket to appear seamless (as on the costume), I used large metal snaps that were hand sewn in place. As I had not yet sewn down the edges of the bands, I was able to stitch the snaps so the stitches were hidden.
Both left and right bands were topstitched.
I also added 1/4â shoulder pads to make the jacket appear more structured. Even with these minor alternations, this was a very easy make that sewed up in just a few hours.
Result
The jacket and pants donât match perfectly but theyâre close enough for a costume. With the addition of a bald skull cap and white running shoes, the costume was complete. The wearer only had to add some attitude! I donât know if this will be worn agains but it could become a chefâs jacket, I suppose!
This garment was sewn and reviewed in March 2022. I wrote a review on a sewing website/forum that I no longer visit or use. Rather than lose the reviews, I’m recreating them here on my blog.
The Pattern
Get ready for spring or fall with this great utility jacket. Available in sizes XXS-XXL, this anorak features optional hood with zip-front closure and pocket variations. Express your individuality by making this jacket sportier using organza, or go for a casual look with twills and cotton fabrics.
Simplicity 8843 – I made the version without the hood in size Large.
Now that I’m back in a cooler climate, I need jackets. Anoraks are great for this climate and my ‘shape’ in life because they are long enough to wear over tights or leggings, big enough to wear over a sweater, and the waist tie adds some shape (and keeps the cold wind out).
Fabric Used
100% Cotton Twill for the jacket. 100% Nylon ripstop lining. Both were gifted to me by FabricMart because I’m a Fabricista vlogger/blogger.
Alterations and Changes
I added a lining to make this wearable in early spring in this part of the world where spring may not come until late May. I have not added a lot of linings in my life but this was relatively simple because I just needed to use the front, back, and sleeve pieces for the lining.
For a bit of fun, I fussy cut a piece of the design and stitched that to the inside of the lining. No one else will see it, but it was something that made this jacket bespoke.
Sewing Comments
Again, another relatively easy project that a beginner could sew with a bit of patience. There are challenges with the zipper (made more challenging by adding the lining). And I added work for myself when I used a bold print that would need to be placed properly and matched. I did not mark the pockets well so first sewed them on too high, then when I moved them down they needed to be recut to align with the print.
The cord at the waist is in an external channel that again, needs to have the print aligned. That was actually easier than the pockets!
Conclusion
This turned out to be a really enjoyable sewing project and I’m really happy with the final result!
I would definitely use this pattern again, perhaps with a technical fabric. It’s a nice shape for every day. I wasn’t as successful in matching the fabric design as I had hoped to be but I did add a lining and that was a growth moment đ
This is a great weight fabric, and the ripstop lining does a good job of cutting the wind which makes this a good choice for spring and fall. And the design is interesting but not so weird that it can’t be worn as outerwear to work.
Thoughts after wearing this jacket for a year
One change I would make if I use this pattern again is to add some length to the sleeves. They are just barely long enough when walking around but pull up when driving. There’s a bit of fabric left in a scrap bag so this may become one of those ‘mending’ projects for the future.
I am consolidating my pattern reviews and will be adding blog posts of pattern reviews that were previously posted on a sewing website that I no longer participate on.
This garment was made in October of 2019. I’m highlighting it today as part of Sew Frugal 23, an Instagram sewing challenge in the month of March, 2023.
Alice and Co. created a free, downloadable Mary Quant mini dress in celebration of the Mary Quant exhibit at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London which ran from April 2019 through February 2020. Here’s a link to the V&A’s website on the exhibition.
In addition to this free pattern, the Minidress, the Georgie dress is also available for free from the V&A website. Search the exhibition website (paragraph above) for that pattern.
Although I was quite young in the swinging 60s, I love the images of Twiggy and friends on Carnaby Street. To me, little shift dresses seem like dresses that can be worn when walking, or dancing, or playing croquet. They are not a shape designed for sitting carefully at tea (although they certainly can be worn for any occasion!)
A link to the free pattern and background information on the V&A Exhibit and Alice and Co’s development of the pattern can be found here: Sew Your Own Mary Quant Minidress
The fabric used for the dress is stretch faux suede that I purchased from Fabric Mart Fabrics. It was featured in one of Julie’s Picks in 2019 and I loved the bright red that doesn’t have a hint of orange so it’s suitable for pink faced people like me.
When I received the fabric it felt more like a sueded scuba. It has quite a bit of bounce to the fabric and certainly does not drape. I thought that lent well to the A-line of the MQ Minidress.
Before I go into too many details, I want to add that the dress is really nicely drafted. It’s absolutely reminiscent of the 1960s but is also a very wearable dress for the 2020s. There are little details that add to the complexity and sophistication of the dress, such as the shaping at the top of the sleeves (photo below in gallery).
Adjustments
I paper fit the pattern and the bust darts aligned well so the only alteration I made was cutting the dress 2″ longer. Once I had basted the dress together I wound up removing over an inch from each side because it was just too big. There’s obviously quite a bit of ease in the pattern.
After stitching on the sleeves, I took about 1 1/2″ off of the width of the sleeves from the shoulder down to the wrist because my fabric wouldn’t drape well on the gathers. That likely wouldn’t be an issue with a lighter weight fabric.
After I had completed the dress I didn’t like where it hit on my legs so I cut 4″ off the length. I must have been feeling quite young that day because it’s now too short! It’s good over opaque tights but I don’t feel that it’s the best length for me.
And the keyhole is quite low cut, as you will see in the one photo of me wearing the dress with a vest/cami underneath. I will add more photos of me in the dress- but for today there is just the one from 2019.
Sewing ‘Challenges’
The primary challenge I encountered on this project was the front keyhole opening. The keyhole is intended to be faced but once I stitched on the facing it was really obvious – my fabric was too thick and springy. Adding to the challenge, this fabric did not take well to unpicking so I wound up with raggedy edges that needed to be trimmed. In the end, I settled on a baby hem around the keyhole opening. I stitched on my machine and held my breath, hoping that the edge didn’t pop out. This was a solution, but definitely not the best solution. This pattern will work much better with fabric that is lighter weight. If you see me wearing this dress, don’t look too closely at the keyhole opening, okay? đ«Ł
Somewhere along the way, I decided it would be a great idea to make the collar detachable with fashion fabric on one side and plaid on the other. Not having any idea what I was doing, I drafted a collar stand, added a placket, messed around with buttons then ultimate decided that it wasn’t going to lie flat or look finished so I unpicked a lot of stitches and went back to the original pattern. I think the collar would look better with a stand. The way it is, it does look authentically 1960s.
The final piece was the half-belt on the back, and I endeavoured to place it at the small of my back. This is indeed a reversible belt with one side plaid and the other red. I also used the plaid for the cuffs.
Now, over three years after making the dress, I do still like it and I wear it occasionally over opaque tights on cold days. After I had completed the dress and worn it a couple of times, I cut 4″ off the length. That’s was too much and it’s shorter than I would like, and it’s also a bit boxy but again, that is likely the result of the fabric. I may chop off several more inches and wear it over leggings next year, if leggings are still a thing.
If you are wanting to make an easy dress that has that Carnaby Street vibe, this is definitely a good choice. It’s well drafted and quite easy to sew. And free!
Back Belt OpenBack Belt ClosedNice shaping at sleeve headOld photos from 2019. Current photos will come!Old photos from 2019. Current photos will come!
Do you set Sewing Goals? How about New Year’s Resolutions?
I’m not a particularly good goal setter. I tend to go with the flow and decide on a course or objective as needed. When I was in my teens, I frustrated the guidance counselor because I had no timeline for an undergraduate degree followed by a graduate degree or professional certification. I just jumped into whatever landed on my plate and went in that direction. Note that this has made my life quite varied and fun, but maybe not as ‘accomplished’ as it could be!
Once I started sewing, I realised that it was not only fun but also rewarding to set goals for my sewing practice. So in 2018, I did a Ready to Wear Fast (there’s a page up top), and then in 2019 I started setting goals to develop particular skills, like welt pockets.
Those welt pockets stayed on the list until 2022 when I finally did a couple and I suppose I can check that off the list now because I can do one with instructions in front of me.
So what for 2023?
Over the holidays, I thought a lot about what challenges I wanted to set for myself for 2023. A regular feature on my YouTube channel is sharing monthly sewing challenges. Reading through the year-long challenges and what others are planning was fun but setting a goal of nine particular garments isn’t really of interest to me. I don’t feel like there are nine things I need/want at this moment.
Instead, I found a couple of things that are more my speed.
The We All Sew Blog by Bernina offered a printable checklist for Sewing Goals (available here). It’s a manageable list with space for 3 projects, 3 techniques and a few other general categories. It was easy to select just three things.
Top 3 Projects:
Perfect Pants (that’s perFECT, not perfect) – Continue on the Top Down Centre Out method route with the goal of ending the year with well-fitting patterns for wovens (with pockets) and knits (for casual).
Do a pattern destash! How have I wound up with hundreds of patterns?
Continue working on my wardrobe of ‘elevated casual’ basics.
Top 3 Techniques to Learn/Try:
Linings – I would like to learn how to add a lining to anything. PLUS, learn to line woven trousers. A pair of lined, wool trousers is almost essential for this climate.
Applique – for craft and home dec sewing. I took a class a few years ago but I’m afraid it didn’t stick.
Zippers – the other night I watched the Great British Sewing Bee and several of the contestants added zippers without any problems, all while under the pressure of the contest. I want to be able to do that!
Sewing Challenges
In terms of sewing challenges for the year, I’m trying to balance time sewing with thinking that everything I sew needs to be showcased here, on Instagram or on my channel. We all love to show off what we’ve made, especially if we don’t have sewing friends in real life. But it can become a burden. I’m not going to promise to do (or not do) anything but will instead see how I feel and if I’m placing undue pressure on myself just for an internet contest.
That said, there is one challenge that really spoke to me and I am committing to this one – Sew Thoughtful – which is an IG weekly challenge that is intended to take a gentler approach to sewing. Instead of focusing on production, you set intentions for the week and think back on past projects.
I am trying to generally be more mindful in life, and to really be present when I sew. Maybe I won’t have to rip out so many seams if I actually focus on my sewing instead of having squirrel! moments.
If you would like to follow along and are on Instagram, search for #sewthoughtful hosted by @SewLttleTime
What are your plans? Have you set any sewing goals for yourself?
Janine Sews 